Just wondering for LTZ people if anyone knows if you can splice into the coil wire like the LTR for people using the normally open switches.

 

thats what i did.

 

I know that most people are running N/C switches. I think that I read somewhere that if you run a N/O switch that it can kill your cdi.

 

Yeah i Think with normaly open switches you have to ground it to the cdi which causes electrical issues. Im not real sure about that though so double check my info.

 

I run my LTR with a normally open. I can't speak for Z owners though.

 

The LTZ should run a N.C. kill switch, Dynatek will void the warranty on their ignitions if a N.O. switch is used. Gunnar makes a quality N.C. kill switch that splices into the wiring from your factory handlebar on-off switch..www.hardlineproducts.com Their website tells you whats recommended for each machine...

 

if you have a stock cdi it doesnt matter if you run a n.o.

 

I wired my normally open into the coil and it works backwards. Like if its pkugged in it wont start..so do i actually have a nc

 

Wait you wired it so that your kill switch, without the tether, it will start? And if you do have the tether in, it wont start? Doesn't that defeat the purpose?

If you wired it to the coil its normally open still, but when it grounds the connection it acts like it has no spark.

 

I wireed like the directions said to do and thats what happened. Haha i want it to work bro

 

I don't know if it's the same color wire, but wire it into the white coil wire not the black. Black is ground, and by having the tether pulled and it starting and running means your grounding the ground which defeats the purpose.

 

I'd just go nc. I think my Gunnar cost me around $45 shipped from hardline in black. For some reason black was drastically cheaper. I believe it went to orange/white and orange. I wouldn't mess with a no switch personally, save the hassle and do it right the first time.

 

My gunnar sucked and would work half the time. I will never buy anything again except a pingel tether unless its going on a pos i don't care about. I'm planning on cutting this one off every quad I sell and keeping it.

Tyler and tucker doesn't it make you nervous on the ltr grounding out the coil with all the electronics? IF I was running a NO on it I'd probly atleast wire it into the tip over sensor...

 

my ltr has the pingle remember. my old z or aka my brothers has a pro armor.

 

ahhh I misread your post...

 

its all good boss

 

I've heard people having problems with their TOS when doing that. I asked a local guy who parts out Chris Borich's bikes and he says that Chris's bikes wire into the white coil wire. That's what i'm going to do, i trust his word.

 

So that is with a NO switch?


Just to be clear my idea of NO is when the clip is in place.
It closes when tethered.

 

Yes mine is NO. My understanding of NO is when the tether is in it allows the flow of electricity to wherever it's going and when the tether is pulled, it closes the switch, to ground whatever is flowing. In this case the spark to the quad.

 

Yes mine is NO. My understanding of NO is when the tether is in it Doesnt allows the flow of electricity to go to the grounding point and when the tether is pulled, it closes the switch,Which alowes the electricity to flow to the grounding point which is the frame.

there you go fixed it
That is a normally open. Normally open is supposed to be used on dirtbikes and quads that dont have efi or electric start. but on a z you can run a NO but if you have any aftermarket cdi it voids the warranty because it can fry the cdi. personally if you have a z get a NO. If i didnt find a NC( for 25 bucks) for my ltr I would of got a NO.